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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might expect renowned high-end names. However, tucked near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a distant part of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

This compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. This recognition has made the family completely shocked.

“I am totally surprised,” remarks the family member, alluding to his family’s relentless work that led to their small shop earning such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its former feel. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the cuisine, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent texture.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo beyond its own walls. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this gastronomic achievement.